{"id":6055,"date":"2016-04-24T10:26:06","date_gmt":"2016-04-23T22:26:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/?p=6055"},"modified":"2016-04-24T10:26:06","modified_gmt":"2016-04-23T22:26:06","slug":"hardwicke-settlement-auckland-islands","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/6055","title":{"rendered":"Hardwicke Settlement – Auckland Islands"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Zodiac<\/a>
Zodiac coming in to land in the sheltered waters of Erebus Cove, Port Ross.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our magical day on Enderby Island was going to be hard to beat and was tinged with a degree of regret as I hadn’t had time to do any justice to the Sea Lion colony or spend any useful time with the flightless Auckland Island Teals that had welcomed us when we landed. The plan for today was to visit the relics of the Hardwicke settlement and then explore some of the old coast watcher huts. While both of these options were of great historical significance and interest, I am afraid that for me, they pale into insignificance compared to the natural history. Human settlement has caused significant damage to the environment of the islands and the joy of nature bouncing back on Enderby after removal of the insults is more marvellous and fascinating than any hut or remnant of human habitation despite the obvious bravery and fortitude of those humans from a different time. I am lucky to be able to enjoy that perspective from the soft comfort of modern life, but have always preferred natural history to human history.<\/p>\n

\"Erebus<\/a>
Erebus Cove. Hardwicke settlement remnants under the Rata canopy to the left in this image<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the Zodiacs heading toward the sheltered shore of Port Ross we could see warm sunlight washed across the close clipped canopy of the Southern Rata. Landing at Erebus Cove there was little to see of the old settlement but heading into the forest we could get the impression of the old roadways with Rata regrowth taking over. A sad collection of mossy bricks hinted at a previous structure. Hardwicke was developed by the London whaling company, Samuel Enderby & Sons, as a whaling and ship provisioning settlement in 1849. Prefabricated buildings were erected and the bricks were used to construct chimneys. Settlers had been carefully chosen to have the mix of skills required to establish a new settlement but the peaty soils and dense bush prevented successful agriculture and the whaling did not live up to expectations. The settlement was abandoned after 2 years and 9 months with most buildings disassembled and removed leaving only the cemetery as a reminder.<\/p>\n

\"Regenerating<\/a>
Regenerating Southern Rata reclaiming the streets of Hardwicke and reaching for a share of the sky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ferns<\/a>
Ferns reclaiming the streets beneath the upstretched arms of Southern Rata<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Hardwicke<\/a>
Hardwicke Cemetery containing 2 infants who died during the settlement and some subsequent castaways who didn’t survive their shipwrecks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Edin,<\/a>
Edin, Paul Charman, Bill Morris and Martin Cawthorn at the Hardwicke Cemetery.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Auckland Islands were the site of several shipwrecks. The wreck of the Grafton in Carnley Harbour with the 5 survivors who spent 19 months on the island before constructing a boat and making it to Stewart Island, caught the public imagination. An expedition by HMS Victoria went in search of castaways and released goats and rabbits on Enderby Island to provide food for shipwreck survivors. At Erebus Cove they chiselled a rata trunk with “H.M.C.S VICTORIA NORMAN IN SEARCH OF SHIPWRECKED PEOPLE OCT 13TH 1865” and this inscription is still partially visible. They also installed fingerposts pointing toward castaway depots with supply caches.<\/p>\n

\"Victoria<\/a>
Victoria tree with part of the inscription still visible<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking<\/a>
Looking out over Port Ross from Enderby Cove. Spirit of Enderby at anchor.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Returning to the ship the wind was picking up leading to a rather spray soaked Zodiac trip. This altered the plans for the afternoon with a return to Enderby replacing the planned visit to the coast watchers hut at Ranui Cove, a decision that was very popular.<\/p>\n

Black & White photos all with Fuji XT1 and Samyang 8mm f2.8 fisheye lens – RAW files processed in Lightroom and then Nik Silver Efex Pro2.<\/p>\n

Colour images with Nikon D3s and 24-120mm f4 lens or 18-35mm f3.5-4.5 lens except 2nd image in this post which was with the Fuji X100s.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Our magical day on Enderby Island was going to be hard to beat and was tinged with a degree of regret as I hadn’t had time to do any justice to the Sea Lion colony or spend any useful time with the flightless Auckland Island Teals that had welcomed us when we landed. The plan […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[29,142,19],"tags":[151,155,144,148,143,150],"class_list":["post-6055","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-zealand","category-subantarctic","category-travel","tag-adventure","tag-auckland-islands","tag-new-zealand","tag-subantarctic","tag-subantarctic-islands","tag-travel","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nHardwicke Settlement - Auckland Islands - WildLight Photography<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/6055\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hardwicke Settlement - Auckland Islands - WildLight Photography\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Our magical day on Enderby Island was going to be hard to beat and was tinged with a degree of regret as I hadn’t had time to do any justice to the Sea Lion colony or spend any useful time with the flightless Auckland Island Teals that had welcomed us when we landed. 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As with the\u00a0Antarctic Expedition\u00a0posts, a master post will make it easier to navigate. 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I shared three images in the process ending with the above image that is the closest I have come\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Black&White"","block_context":{"text":"Black&White","link":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/category\/blackwhite"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/VictoriaTree-D5C_1742-line-web.jpg?fit=800%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/VictoriaTree-D5C_1742-line-web.jpg?fit=800%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/VictoriaTree-D5C_1742-line-web.jpg?fit=800%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/VictoriaTree-D5C_1742-line-web.jpg?fit=800%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":6079,"url":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/6079","url_meta":{"origin":6055,"position":3},"title":"Auckland Island Teal","author":"tony","date":"May 1, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"After our visit to Hardwicke, the windy\u00a0weather forced a change in plan and landing on Enderby felt like a reprieve from the regrets of yesterday. I would have a chance to spend a bit of time focussing on the Auckland Island Teal and the Sea Lion colony that had got\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "birds"","block_context":{"text":"birds","link":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/category\/birds"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/AucklandIslandTeal_D810185-web.jpg?fit=800%2C533&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/AucklandIslandTeal_D810185-web.jpg?fit=800%2C533&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/AucklandIslandTeal_D810185-web.jpg?fit=800%2C533&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/AucklandIslandTeal_D810185-web.jpg?fit=800%2C533&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":6035,"url":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/6035","url_meta":{"origin":6055,"position":4},"title":"Nik Tonal Contrast – optimising wildlife images. A video tutorial","author":"tony","date":"April 17, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"This week is a brief departure from the Subantarctic travelogue to share an image editing technique. Next week we will be back at\u00a0the Auckland Islands, visiting the historical Hardwicke settlement. For a number of years I have been using Nik Tonal Contrast to optimise wildlife images and have covered this\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/category\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FalconNikVidScreen.jpg?fit=800%2C466&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FalconNikVidScreen.jpg?fit=800%2C466&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FalconNikVidScreen.jpg?fit=800%2C466&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FalconNikVidScreen.jpg?fit=800%2C466&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":14680,"url":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/14680","url_meta":{"origin":6055,"position":5},"title":"Auckland Island Teal Revisited","author":"tony","date":"October 17, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Auckland Island Teal female (Anas aucklandica) One of my goals with this second trip to the Subantarctics was to improve my archive of images of the endemic bird species. On the first trip I managed some lovely images of a male Auckland Island Teal, one of which is the featured\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "birds"","block_context":{"text":"birds","link":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/archives\/category\/birds"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/AucklandIslandTeal-D85_8025-web.jpg?fit=960%2C640&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/AucklandIslandTeal-D85_8025-web.jpg?fit=960%2C640&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/AucklandIslandTeal-D85_8025-web.jpg?fit=960%2C640&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/AucklandIslandTeal-D85_8025-web.jpg?fit=960%2C640&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6055","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6055"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6055\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6055"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6055"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tonywhitehead.com\/wildlight\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6055"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}