Musgrave Inlet, Auckland Island

Looking toward the southern shore of Musgrave Inlet from the Spirit of Enderby
Looking toward the southern shore of Musgrave Inlet from the Spirit of Enderby

Auckland Island’s east coast is cleft with numerous inlets and Musgrave Inlet was our next destination. The prevailing westerlies rip down the length of these inlets and today was no exception with a wind and spray lashed start to our Zodiac exploration of first, the northern shore, and then another splashy dash across the inlet to the southern side. Hunkered down with back to the spray and camera protected in a large ziplock bag, reaching the sheltered, kelp fringed edges, was a relief.

Tui De Roy negotiates her Zodiac into place to photograph Eastern Rockhopper Penguins
Tui De Roy negotiates her Zodiac into place to photograph Eastern Rockhopper Penguins

An area of cliffs that physically exclude the pigs shows just how lush the tussock, hebes and megaherbs can be when left undisturbed. Light-mantled Albatross wheel above us and we can pick out birds on the nest amongst the vegetation while Eastern Rockhoppers show their form hopping over the rock below.

Rockhopper Penguin in typical rock hopping mode
Rockhopper Penguin in typical rock hopping mode
Lush growth of tussock, Hebes, Anisotome and Stilbocarpa in the area sheltered from pig rooting
Lush growth of tussock, Hebes, Anisotome and Stilbocarpa in the area sheltered from pig rooting
Light-mantled Albatross on a nest amongst the lush vegetation on the cliff face
Light-mantled Albatross on a nest amongst the lush vegetation on the cliff face

The birds and lush vegetation were the highlight of the northern shore and the geology the highlight of the southern. We nosed into a number of small sea caves before heading through a small opening into an open topped pool with rata fringing the rim above and stalactites of moss hanging down toward the water. The roof of what had been a cave had collapsed leaving this magical space. Adjacent to it was another sea cave, deep and dark into which we edged before turning to look back towards the distant light at the mouth.

Light-mantled Albatross on a nest. This was an extremely low nesting bird on the southern shore.
Light-mantled Albatross (Phoebetria palpebrata) on a nest. This was an extremely low nesting bird on the southern shore.
Southern Rata lining the rim of the collapsed roof and moss stalactites hanging down
Southern Rata lining the rim of the collapsed roof and moss stalactites hanging down
Fisheye view up through the open roof. Fuji XT1 and Samyang 8mm f2.8 fisheye lens
Fisheye view up through the open roof. Fuji XT1 and Samyang 8mm f2.8 fisheye lens
Zodiac leaving the open roofed sea cave
Zodiac leaving the open roofed sea cave. Entry to the deep intact cave just visible at the left of frame.
Looking out toward the light from the back of the sea cave
Looking out toward the light from the back of the sea cave
Martin Cawthorn navigates our Zodiac out from the mouth of a sea cave.
Martin Cawthorn navigates our Zodiac out from the mouth of the deep sea cave.

Photos with Nikon D810 and Nikon 80-400mm f4.5-5.6 AFS VR lens except cave photos with Nikon 18-35mm f3.5-4.5 lens and fisheye image as noted.

Next week we will look a bit more closely at Eastern Rockhopper Penguins.

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